Finished chest: 41 (44, 47, 50, 53, 56)"/104 (112, 119, 127, 135, 142)cm circumference, after seaming and blocking.
To fit chest: 36−38 (39−41, 42−44, 45–47, 48–50, 51–53)"/91−96 (99−104, 107−112, 114–119, 122–127, 130–135)cm. With ease of: Approx. 3–5"/7–13cm. For less ease, choose a smaller size; for more ease, choose a larger size.
Finished length: 27 (27½, 27½, 28, 28, 28½)"/68.5 (69.5, 69.5, 71, 71, 72)cm, from high-shoulder point (where shoulder meets neck, excluding ribbed neck band) to hem.
Details given for 41"/104cm finished size; larger sizes in parentheses ( ).

7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10) skeins Tahki Donegal Tweed (183 yds/167m each).
Model is wearing 50"/127cm finished size with 5½"/14cm of ease; shown in Color 872 Embers.

For custom lengths: To lengthen or shorten body, add or subtract approx. 29 (31, 33, 35, 37, 39) yds/ 27 (29, 30, 32, 34, 36)m of yarn for each 1"/2.5cm of knitted length

US 7 (4.5mm) needles, or size to obtain gauge.
US 5 (3.75mm) needle, or two sizes smaller than gauge needle; 16"/40cm circular needle in same size.
4 locking markers.
Stitch holder.
Darning needle to finish.

18 sts/27 rows = 4"/10cm in stockinette stitch.

Garment is knit in pieces and seamed using mattress stitch. The neck band is picked up and knit in the round.

SWATCHING FOR GAUGE: To feel confident that the garment you’re knitting will turn out the right size, it is important to swatch your yarn and block your swatch before diving into the project. Your stitch gauge is important for body fit; your row gauge will affect the body, armhole and sleeve lengths.

For this design, we’ve chosen a worsted-weight yarn knitted at 18 sts/27 rows = 4"/10cm. Cast on enough stitches to knit a swatch that measures about 6"/15cm wide; knit in pattern (St St) for 6"/15cm and bind off loosely.

Measure unblocked stitch and row gauges over 4"/10cm and write them down to use as a reference while you’re knitting. Soak swatch for about 20 minutes in tepid water with a little no-rinse wool wash, squeeze water out, roll in a towel to remove more water, and lay flat to dry with edges pinned to give you the desired gauge (you may need to apply a little tension but should not need to work too hard). Let swatch dry completely; unpin and let ‘rest’ for a day or two (don’t rush it!); check gauge again (it may have bounced back). This is your blocked gauge—write it down!

If you have more than 18 stitches in 4"/10cm, your gauge is a little too tight; try swatching again on a larger needle. If you have fewer than 18 sts, your gauge is a little loose; try again on a smaller needle.
Note: Label your swatches carefully, especially if making multiple swatches. Once you get the gauge you’re after, make sure you like the ‘hand’ of the fabric (density and drape), too.