Pretty Perfect Square Using ITO Sensai
Pretty Perfect Square Using ITO Sensai
This free pattern is the miraculous result of a long hunt for the 'holy grail'—a perfectly proportioned, fine-weight, simply edged square scarf! We created blocky, stylishly irregular stripes in four colors. Fold and refold this light, roomy square for new, vibrant variations.
The stripes of this square scarf take on a funky, almost candy-bright effect in ITO Sensai, a sensational lace-weight strand of 60% mohair and 40% silk. Sensai knits up into a gossamer fabric—it’s fuzzy, gauzy goodness! And its color palette floats between ethereal pastels and electric brights—from blush pink to warm tangerine, from acid yellow to soft cream. So fun to stripe up!
See the Free Pattern tab for our Pretty Perfect Square pattern.
24 x 24"/ 61 x 61cm, after blocking.
4 skeins ITO Sensai ( 262yds / 240m each): one skein each color A, B, C and D. Or approx. 500yds/457m of an equivalent lace weight mohair: 100yds/92m Color A; 150 yds/137m Color B; 100yds/92m Color C; 150 yds/137m Color D.
Shown in A-Hydrangea, B-String, C- Moss, D-Pale Blush.
NEEDLES & NOTIONS
US 3 (3.25mm) circular needle, or size to obtain gauge.
US G/6 (4mm) crochet hook for provisional cast-on.
Smooth fingering-weight waste yarn or knotting cord for provisional cast-on.
Fine blunt darning needle for weaving in ends.
Fine gauge blocking wires and t-pins; or lots of forked blocking pins.
24sts & 40rows=4"/10cm in stockinette st, after blocking.
See the "Basic Details" tab for size, yarn, needle, and gauge information.
GLOSSARY: Ch = chain; K = knit; Sl = slip specified number of sts to from left needle to right needle without working them (slip purlwise unless directed otherwise); RS = right side; SSK = slip, slip, knit (slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, insert left needle into front of 2 slipped stitches from left; from this position, knit 2 sts together; St(s) = stitch(es); WS = wrong side.
Provisional cast on: With this provisional cast-on method, stitches are crocheted over working needle with waste yarn; it does not include a row with the working yarn.
Make a slip knot with waste yarn and place loop onto crochet hook. Hold gauge needle and waste yarn in left hand and crochet hook in right; form an ‘X’ with left-pointing hook on top of right-pointing needle and yarn behind needle (knitting needle is ‘sandwiched’ between hook and yarn).
*Using crochet hook, Ch 1, pulling yarn through loop on hook and catching needle under chain. Bring yarn to back between needle and hook.* Repeat between * * until 146 sts are cast on to needle. Continuing with waste yarn and hook only, Ch 3; place a locking marker into last chain; cut yarn, tighten around locking marker.
Working Stripes: First row (RS): *With next color in sequence (see below), leaving 6"/15cm tail, knit to end.
Next row (WS): Slip 2 sts purlwise, purl to end.
Next row (RS): Slip 2 sts purlwise, knit to end.
Repeat last 2 rows for specified number of rows, ending with RS row. Do not turn work. Cut yarn, leaving 6"/15cm tail. Slide sts back to right end of needle.*
Repeat between * * until entire color sequence has been completed.
Note: You will be cutting yarn at end of each color change. By working an uneven number of rows in each color, and always sliding stitches to right end of needle to begin new color on RS, you will always end with RS row. First tail will always be at right edge, second tail at left (this reduces bulk when weaving in tails). First row of new color does not have slipped edge.
Color sequence: Rows 1–35: Beginning with RS row, work 35 rows as above in Color A, ending with RS row.
Rows 36–60: 25 rows as above, in Color B.
Rows 61–81: 21 rows as above, in Color C.
Rows 82–116: 35 rows as above, in Color D.
Rows 117–135: 19 rows as above, in Color B.
Rows 136–160: 25 rows as above, in Color C.
Rows 161–175: 15 rows as above, in Color A.
Rows 176–210: 35 rows as above, in Color D.
Rows 211–239: 29 rows as above, in Color B. Do not cut yarn.
[239 rows total]
First bind-off: With WS facing, work 2-stitch I-cord bind-off as follows: *K1, SSK, Sl 2 sts just worked back to left needle*; repeat between * * until 3 sts remain (all on left needle); K1, SSK, lift first st on right needle over second st. Cut yarn leaving 8"/20cm tail. Fasten off.
Second bind-off: Working from marked end of chain, remove marker and unzip provisional cast-on, picking up live sts onto needle. Make sure you have 146 sts and each st is sitting with correct orientation on needle (i.e., right leg in front). Join matching yarn and repeat as first bind-off.
Weave in tails: To weave in side tails, thread tail onto fine darning needle and slip as invisibly as possible along underside of slipped edge (into its matching color) for approx. 2"/5cm. Clip tail. Slip corner tails along underside of I-cord bind-off.
Blocking: Soak for 20 minutes in tepid water with no-rinse wool soap. Gently squeeze out as much water as possible. Roll in towel and squeeze out more moisture. Lay flat on moisture-safe blocking surface. Weave fine blocking wires through all sides of scarf just inside slipped or I-cord edgings. Pin wires out to desired dimensions, using a little tension if necessary to square it up. If not using wires, be sure to place pins at frequent intervals to avoid scalloped edges. Allow to dry thoroughly. Gently steam press with a press cloth. Dry thoroughly.
COLORWAY: Hydrangea; 307 Hydrangea + 336 String + 316 Moss + 300 Pale Blush.
COLORWAY: Pool Blue; 326 Pool Blue + 306 Lemon + 333 Chestnut + 304 Crocus.
COLORWAY: Lilac; 339 Lilac + 337 Lime + 324 Pale Blue + 343 Angora.
COLORWAY: Tangerine; 338 Tangerine + 305 Yellow + 324 Pale Blue + 336 String.