This cardigan is designed with approx. 4–6" of ease, but because the shoulder is dropped slightly, it’s a little more forgiving in the fit. You can choose a size that will fit more closely or more oversized.
Sizes XS (S, M, L, XL). Information given for XS; S, M, L, XL in parentheses ( ).
Finished bust: 37½ (42½, 47, 50½, 53½):/95 (108, 119.5, 128, 136)cm, after seaming, including front band.
To fit bust: 32–34 (36–38, 40–42, 44–46, 48–50)"/81–86 (91–96, 101–106, 112–117, 122–127)cm.

LENGTHS
Finished body length:
Measured from high shoulder (where shoulder meets neck) to hem. 26 (26½, 27, 27½, 28)"/66 (67.5, 68.5, 70, 71)cm.
Center back neck to cuff: 28½ (29½, 30¾, 31¾, 32¾)"/72.5 (75, 78, 80.5, 83)cm.
For custom lengths: To lengthen or shorten body, add or subtract approx. 30 (33, 36, 38, 41) yds/27 (30, 33, 35, 37)m of yarn per 1"/2.5cm of knitted length.

Choose a DK-weight yarn that typically knits at 22 sts to 4"/10cm.
Approx. 1200 (1350, 1475, 1600, 1750) yds/1100 (1250, 1350, 1470, 1580)m.
Shown in size S on 38"/96.5cm bust, in plummy brown Rowan Felted Tweed Color 145; 191yds/175m per skein.

US 6 (4mm) 24"/60cm circular needle, or size to obtain gauge.
US 4 (3.5mm) 24"/60cm circular needle, or 2 US sizes/.5mm smaller than gauge needle.
2 ring markers; 10 locking markers; 4 stitch holders (we like to use extra circular needles, in gauge size or smaller, so we can knit off holders from either end); darning needle to finish.
Five 5/8"/16mm buttons; needle and thread.

20 sts/32 rows = 4"/10cm in stockinette stitch on larger needle, after blocking.

We graded the Go-To Cardigan in five sizes, but we recognize that no two women are alike: one woman with a 38" bust might be 5'10" tall, another 5'2". One might have narrow shoulders and long arms while another might have broad shoulders and short arms. Our solution was to design a shape that’s more forgiving than most, starting with the shoulder line and armhole: the 2" dropped shoulder isn’t expected to fit, so it offers more range. It looks nice with less drop on a broader shoulder, yet the shallower sleeve cap can drop even farther off a narrower shoulder without adding too much “schlump.”

Slight A-line shaping was another critical ingredient. It offers a bit of extra ease through the hips, a little less fullness through the bustline, and a nice point of contrast to narrow pants or leggings.

You’ll also notice that the fronts, with their button bands installed and overlapped, add up to a little more than the typical half inch of overall circumference–a nice detail for most women!

And a little short-row shaping at the hem gives a bit of drop to the center front and back, which keeps the side seams from drooping too much when your arms are down (which is most of the time, isn’t it?). It also keeps the front and back from lifting, for a timeless and flattering look.

We’ve all had the importance of stitch gauge drilled into our knitter brains, and for good reason. Knowing your row gauge, and maintaining it throughout, is especially important with this garment. Getting the desired V-neck shaping, armhole shaping and depth as well as sleeve and body length depends on a consistently accurate row gauge.

We sometimes find it helpful to knit two gauge swatches. Leave one swatch unblocked and “dress” the other swatch, meaning wet block, steam press, and let it rest, then measure stitch and row gauge. Then you can refer to the unblocked swatch while knitting: if your knitting is matching the unblocked swatch, you can feel pretty confident that your finished pieces will block to the desired gauge.