The Free Pattern
See "The Details" tab for size, yarn, needle, and gauge information.
Glossary:
Ch = chain; Dec(’d) = decrease(d); Inc(’d) = increase(d); K = knit; KBFB = knit into back, then front, then back of same stitch; P = purl; P3Tog = purl 3 stitches together; St(s) = stitch(es).
Scarf is worked on the bias by increasing at the end of every odd numbered row and decreasing at the end of every even numbered row, creating a very steep bias and nice long points.
Provisional cast-on:
By working a provisional cast-on and binding off later, both ends will match perfectly. Make a slip knot with waste yarn and place loop onto crochet hook. Hold needle and waste yarn in left hand and crochet hook in right; form an ‘X’ with left-pointing hook on top of right-pointing needle and yarn behind needle (knitting needle is ‘sandwiched’ between hook and yarn).
*Using crochet hook, Ch 1, pulling yarn through loop on hook and catching needle under chain. Bring yarn to back between needle and hook.* Repeat between * * until 84 (114)sts are cast on to needle. Note: To make scarf wider or narrower, add or subtract sts in multiples of 6. Continuing with waste yarn and hook only, Ch 3; place locking marker into last chain. Cut yarn and tighten around locking marker.
Set-up row:
Leaving a 2 (3) yds/m tail (for binding off later), knit to end. Note: Wrap your excess tail into a neat bundle to keep it out of your way while working.
Stitch pattern:
Row 1 (inc): *K2, P2, K1, P1*; repeat between * * to last 6 sts; K2, P2, K1, KBFB. [86 (116) sts]
Row 2 (dec): *K2, P2, K1, P1*; repeat between * * to last 8 sts; K2, P2, K1, P3Tog. [84 (114) sts] Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until desired length and you have approx. 2 (3) yds/m of yarn remaining to bind off. Note: It will take several rows for the nature of this pattern stitch to reveal its beauty—be patient!
ADVICE FROM CATHERINE
- To help remember if you are on Row 1 or Row 2, place a locking marker into fabric on Row 1. Move it up as work progresses.
- To help verify if you are on Row 1 or Row 2, count the number of sts after working last repeat: if you have 6 sts left, you are on Row 1 and it’s time to increase; if you have 8 sts left, you are on Row 2 and it’s time to decrease.
- If you’re in the middle of a row, you can see which row you are on by looking at the direction your scarf is slanting: if it’s slanting up to the left, you are on Row 1; if it’s slanting up to the right, you are on Row 2.
- It is important to pay attention to the tension of your increases and decreases. They form the long edges of the scarf, so the tension should be consistent. If not, one side will be tighter or looser than the other. At the start of the increase row, avoid pulling on the first stitch too tightly.
- If you are off a few stitches when finishing a row, scan your stitches from the beginning of the row to see where you got off track. Use a locking marker to mark the stitch where you got off pattern and unknit to the marked stitch.
- Because Catherine’s yarn plies are not twisted, pay a little extra attention to not splitting the yarn—you’ll get the hang of it!
First bind-off:
Bind off all sts knitwise, making sure to match tension so bind-off edge doesn’t pull or ruffle. Cut yarn and fasten off. Mark first and last sts of bind-off row to establish corners for blocking. Note: Adjust your needle size up or down if you’re having trouble matching tension.
Second bind-off:
Working from marked end of chain, remove marker and unzip provisional cast-on, picking up live sts onto gauge needle. Make sure you have 84 (114) sts and each st is sitting with correct orientation on needle (i.e., right leg in front). Using tail from provisional cast-on, repeat as for first bind-off. Weave in any remaining tails as invisibly as possible.
Blocking:
Soak scarf in lukewarm water with a little gentle wool wash (Catherine prefers The Laundress Wool & Cashmere Shampoo) for several hours or overnight. Rinse two or three times by soaking in fresh lukewarm water (careful—don’t agitate or twist!) until water is clear. This removes the mill finish that is characteristic of Catherine’s yarns. Gently squeeze out as much water as possible. Roll in towels and squeeze out as much remaining moisture as possible. Place on moisture-safe surface and using fine blocking wires or lots of pins, pin edges straight (maintaining parallelogram shape) and pin marked corners to points. Pull to at least 105% of desired finished dimensions (Merino is very bouncy and will spring back a little when dried and relaxed, so it helps to block it under some tension). Allow to air dry thoroughly.
