Honeycomb Mesh Scarf
Honeycomb Mesh Scarf
This fabric sneaks up on you. At first glance, a passer-by might think 'garter stitch'—but upon closer inspection, it proves to be more clever and complex. Worked in a simple slip-stitch pattern on a larger needle than usual, it has a mesh structure that manages to be multi-dimensional and airy at the same time.
We offer this scarf pattern in two widths; the conventional scarf width requires one skein of Isager Alpaca 2 while the more lavish width shown here will use two skeins and can be worn wrapped, knotted, looped or flung!
Approx. 5½ (11)" wide x 56" long, before blocking; 6 (12)" wide x 72" long, blocked. Directions for narrower scarf, with wider scarf in parentheses ( ).
1 (2) skein(s) Isager Alpaca Merino 2 (270 yds each), or approx. 270 (540) yds of an equivalent fingering-weight alpaca blend.
NEEDLES & NOTIONS:
US 8 (5mm), or size to obtain gauge. Locking stitch marker, darning needle, blocking wires.
Approx. 25 sts = 4" in pattern stitch, blocked. Note: Every time we work with Isager Alpaca Merino 2, we need to remind ourselves that it looks a little squiggly when it’s fresh off the needles. If you’re thinking that the mesh stitch and your edges are looking a little messy, your blocked swatch should reassure you. Block your swatch following the directions on the pattern—your stitches will open up and your edges neaten spectacularly, much as we ourselves do after a nice trip to the spa!
See the "Basic Details" tab for size, yarn, needle, and gauge information.
GLOSSARY: K = knit; K1TBL = knit 1 stitch through back loop; Sl 1 = slip 1 stitch purlwise; RS = right side; St(s) = stitch(es); WS = wrong side; WYIB = with yarn in back; YF = bring yarn forward between needles.
Cast on: Using long-tail method, cast on 34 (68) sts. Set-up row: Sl 1 WYIB, knit to last st, end YF, Sl 1.
Honeycomb mesh stitch: Row 1 (WS): K1TBL, *Sl 1 WYIB, K1*; repeat between * * to last st, end YF, Sl 1.
Row 2 (RS): K1TBL, knit to last st, end YF, Sl 1.
Row 3 (WS): K1TBL, *K1, Sl 1 WYIB*; repeat between * * to last st, end YF, Sl 1.
Row 4 (RS): Repeat Row 2. Repeat Rows 1–4 until piece measures 56" or desired length, ending with a RS row and enough yarn left to bind off. Bind off: Bind off knitwise on WS, keeping tension even to match cast-on edge.
Note: The ‘floats’ created by the ‘Sl 1 WYIB’ maneuvers on WS rows appear on the RS of the fabric—a subtle detail. To help you stay on track, we suggest a locking stitch marker clipped to the selvage stitch at the beginning of your WS rows to remind you that WS rows are ‘business’ rows. If you forget whether you’re ready for a Row 1 or a Row 3, peep over the top of your needle to look at the stitches on the RS. The longer ‘floats’ of yarn are in front of the stitches that were slipped last time—this time, you’ll want to knit the stitches that were previously slipped, and vice versa.
Finishing: Weave in ends on WS. Wet block your piece by soaking it in tepid water with a little no-rinse wool soap. Gently squeeze out water and roll in a dry towel to squeeze out more moisture. Insert blocking wires into all four edges (on sides, run wires behind selvage sts, over and under two ladders at a time). Pin wires out to desired dimensions, with a little tension for best results, and allow to dry completely.
COLOR: 11 Lt. Blue. Heathered baby blue.
COLOR: 36 Wine. Deep amethyst.
COLOR: 52 Dusty Plum. Heathered soft purple.
COLOR: 21 Red. Tomato.
COLOR: 3 Old Gold. Vintage deep gold.
COLOR: 40 Chartreuse. Heathered yellow shaded with green and gray.
COLOR: 43 Med. Green. Pea green.
COLOR: 23 Green Gray. Soft army green.
COLOR: 0 Natural White. Cream.
COLOR: 4s Natural Dark Grey.
COLOR: 30 Black.
COLOR: 2s Lt. Natural Gray. Heathered granite.