Fisherman's Rib Beanie DK: Brooklyn Tweed Arbor
Fisherman's Rib Beanie DK: Brooklyn Tweed Arbor
The perfect thing to keep your ears warm in a storm! Fisherman’s Rib is a simple, rhythmic pattern. The result? A cozy fabric with unequaled warmth and volume. A deeply textured stitch that's satisfying and comfy in just about any gauge. Hurray!
Brooklyn Tweed's Arbor, a DK-weight worsted spun yarn, was designed just for textures like this. Fabric has just the right amount of stretch for a hat, and stitches are crisply defined. Equally at home on guy or gal, this beanie might be hard to keep to yourself!
Click on "The Free Pattern" tab to see the beanie pattern. Pick a charming color of Arbor below—you'll need 2 skeins to make the beanie shown. For a full selection of colors, see the Brooklyn Tweed Arbor page.
Approx. 18"/46 cm around and 7 1/2"/19cm deep. Fits up to 23"/68cm head.
2 skeins Brooklyn Tweed Arbor (145 yds/132m each) Our sample shown in Color Porter.
NEEDLES & NOTIONS
US 5 (3.75mm) 16"/60cm circular needles and DPNs, or size to obtain gauge.
Eight (8) stitch markers.
Blunt darning needle to finish.
2 ½" pom pom maker (optional).
Approx. 20 sts = 4"/10cm in stitch pattern.
See the "Basic Details" tab for size, yarn, needle, and gauge information.
GLOSSARY: Dec = decrease; K = knit; K1B = knit 1 below (insert right needle from front to back into center of stitch below stitch on left needle; knit this stitch, allowing stitch on needle to drop off and making sure new stitch has caught both strands); P = purl; P1B = purl 1 below (insert right needle from back to front into center of stitch below stitch on left needle; purl this stitch, allowing stitch on needle to drop off and making sure new stitch has caught both the stitch on the needle and the one below); PSSO = pass slipped stitches over; SM = slip marker; St(s) = stitch(es); WYIB = with yarn in back.
Cast on: Using cable cast-on method, cast on 84 sts. Note: If you wish to knit a smaller or larger beanie, subtract or add stitches in multiples of 12 so crown shaping resolves correctly. Don’t join in the round yet.
Row 1: Working flat, *K1, P1*; repeat between * * to end of row. Note: You will close first row gap with tail when you weave in ends.
Ribbed edging rounds: Place contrast-color marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist. Work 5 rounds in K1/P1 ribbing as established.
Begin working in Fisherman’s Rib as follows:
Rounds 1: *K1B, P1*; repeat between * * to end of round; slip marker.
Round 2: *K1, P1B*; repeat between * * to end of round; slip marker.
Tip: If you pick up your knitting and can’t remember which round you were on, look at the stitch below the next stitch on the left needle. If it is a single strand, work into that stitch (that is, K1B or P1B). If it is a double strand, work into the stitch on the needle normally (that is, K1 or P1). Because this stitch can be tricky to fix in case of mistakes, you may wish to run a lifeline through your stitches every few inches: Thread a darning needle with a smooth strong yarn and run it through all stitches on the needle (not the marker). If you make a mistake, you can unravel to this line and slip your needle back into the stitches following the lifeline.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until piece, unstretched, measures approx. 6¾"/17cm, ending with Fisherman’s Rib Round 1. On last round, place 6 additional markers every 12 sts.
Shape crown: Work shaping rounds as follows, slipping markers as you come to them, and dividing sts onto 3 double-point needles when necessary. Tip: When working on double-points, let the end of each needle count as a stitch marker:
Round 1 (dec): *K1, WYIB slip next 2 sts together knitwise, P1B, PSSO; (K1, P1B) 4 times, SM*; repeat between * * to end of round.
[70 sts; 10 sts between markers]
Round 2 (no dec): *K1B, K1, (K1B, P1) 4 times, SM*; repeat between * * to end of round.
Round 3 (dec): *K1, K1B, K1; WYIB slip next 2 sts together knitwise, P1B, PSSO; (K1, P1B) 2 times, SM*; repeat between * * to end of round.
[56 sts; 8 sts between markers]
Round 4 (no dec): *(K1B, K1) 2 times, (K1B, P1) 2 times, SM*; repeat between * * to end of round.
Round 5 (dec): *WYIB slip next 2 sts together knitwise, K1, PSSO, K1B, K1; WYIB slip next 2 sts together knitwise, P1B, PSSO, SM*; repeat between * * to end of round.
[28 sts; 4 sts between markers]
Round 6 (dec): *K1, WYIB slip next 2 sts together knitwise, K1, PSSO, SM*; repeat between * * to end of round.
[14 sts; 2 sts between markers]
Cut yarn leaving an 8"/20cm tail. With darning needle, thread tail through remaining 14 sts sts, removing stitch markers. Draw up tightly. Run yarn through same stitches again for strength and insert needle through center of crown, bringing tail to wrong side.
Finishing: Weave in ends on wrong side. Gently steam or wet block; allow to dry. If you like, embellish with a pom-pom made with leftover yarn, or for a splash of color (and if you are short on the beanie yarn) try a different yarn in a different color, or mix them together!
COLOR: Porter. Faded black.
COLOR: Hammock. Bright ivory.
COLOR: Thaw. Palest silvery grey.
COLOR: Heron. A cool medium grey.
COLOR: Morandi. Purply grey.
COLOR: Fleet. Dark navy blue.
COLOR: Treehouse. Teal green, brighter than Dorado.
COLOR: Wreath. Evergreen.
COLOR: Tincture. Mustard.
COLOR: Firebrush. Vivid fire red.
COLOR: Vintner. Dark, rich cherries.
COLOR: Cobbler. Dark plummy purple.
Pom-Pom Maker - Large (2½" & 3⅜" / 65mm & 85mm)