Moroccan Babouche Slippers Using Rowan Handknit Cotton
Moroccan Babouche Slippers Using Rowan Handknit Cotton
These Babouche Slippers are the sturdy, crocheted Moroccan cousin to our knitted Turkish Bed Socks! Ever since the Bed Socks were introduced in 2009, we’ve had requests for a crocheted version—and here it is! Designed for a worsted-weight yarn, they’ll hold up to all the promenading, puttering, marching, and moonwalking you do around the house.
We crocheted our Slippers in Rowan Handknit Cotton—a hard-working 100% cotton yarn. The plies are spun tightly together, creating a smooth, cool touch. Plus, this fiber is machine washable. So no worries if you step out of the house with your Slippers still on your feet!
Click on the "Free Pattern" tab to see the Slipper pattern. Then choose a fun color for your Slippers—you'll need 2 skeins for a pair. (For a full selection of colors, go to the Rowan Handknit Cotton page.)
Women's medium: approx. 10"/25cm long (toe to heel); approx. 9"/23cm around foot at instep.
Note: Pattern can be adapted for a longer or shorter foot. For length over approx. 11"/28cm, buy extra yarn.
2 skeins Rowan Handknit Cotton (93 yds/85m each); or approx. 186 yds/170m of an equivalent worsted-weight yarn.
Shown in 252 Black, 239 Ice Water, 205 Linen, 215 Rosso.
Approx. 20 sts/22 rows = 4"/10cm in single crochet in the round.
See the "Basic Details" tab for size, yarn, hook, and gauge information.
GLOSSARY: Ch = chain; SC = single crochet; Sl St = slip stitch; St(s) = stitch(es).
Begin toe: With larger hook, Ch4, join in ring with Sl St. Ch1, work 6 SC in ring, working sts around tail as well as chain. Join to first sc with Sl St; draw tail up tightly to close ring; cut tail. Clip marker into last st in round. Move marker up in each subsequent round to mark last st of round.
Next round: Work 2 SC in each st. [12 sts]
Toe shaping: Shaping rounds are worked every other round, alternating with plain rounds.
Round 1: *SC in next 2 sts, 2 SC in next st*; repeat between * * 3 more times. [16 sts]
Round 2 and all even rounds: SC in each st around.
Round 3: *SC in next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st*; repeat between * * 3 more times. [20 sts]
Round 5: *SC in next 4 sts, 2 SC in next st*; repeat between * * 3 more times. [24 sts]
Round 7: *SC in next 5 sts, 2 SC in next st*; repeat between * * 3 more times. [28 sts]
Round 9: *SC in next 6 sts, 2 SC in next st*; repeat between * * 3 more times. [32 sts]
Round 11: *SC in next 7 sts, 2 SC in next st*; repeat between * * 3 more times. [36 sts]
Round 13: *SC in next 8 sts, 2 SC in next st*; repeat between * * 3 more times. [40 sts]
Round 15: *SC in next 9 sts, 2 SC in next st*; repeat between * * 3 more times. [44 sts]
Tip: Clip a locking marker into last stitch to show where shaped section ends and straight section begins.
Repeat Round 2 only for 13 more rounds or until piece measures approx. 5¼"/13.5cm from beginning. Continue to move last-stitch marker up in each round.
Sides: Begin working back and forth to form sides and sole of slipper.
Row 1: SC in next 30 sts. Turn work.
Row 2: Ch1, SC in first st and in next 31 sts; remove markers. [12 sts left unworked for opening over instep; 32 sts form sides and sole] Turn work.
Row 3: Ch1, SC in first st and in each st to end of row. Turn work.
Working on 32 sts, repeat Row 3 17 more times or until slipper measures approx. 1½"/4cm less than desired length to back of heel.
Shape heel: Clip a locking marker into 12th st from each end (8 sts between markers).
Row 1: Ch1, 2 SC in first st, *SC in each st to marker. Remove marker, skip marked st*; repeat between * *, SC in each st to last st, 2 SC in last st. [32 sts]
Clip locking marker into 13th stitch from each end (6 sts between markers). Turn work.
Row 2: Repeat Row 1.
Clip locking marker into 14th stitch from each end (4 sts between markers). Turn work.
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Clip locking marker into 15th stitch from each end (2 sts between markers). Turn work.
Row 4: Repeat Row 1.
Clip locking marker into 16th stitch from each end (0 sts between markers). Turn work.
Round 5: Ch1, 2 SC in first st, SC in each st to marker. Remove both markers, skip both marked sts; pulling yarn up very tightly to close gap, SC in each st to last st, 2 SC in last st. [32 sts] Do not cut yarn.
Seaming: Fold slipper in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching back heel edges. For optional heel loop, Ch 10 (without loop, Ch1). Join back heel with sl st seam, inserting hook under inside legs of ‘V’s (those closest to each other) along the tops of the sts from the last row. Fasten off.
Edging: With smaller hook, hold slipper with right side facing, toe pointing to right. Insert hook into first row of side edge (corner where instep meets side of slipper); with new yarn, pull up loop and Ch1. Work SC into each row along side edge, skipping approx. every 4th row as necessary to keep edge from stretching. Do not skip rows along curve at back of heel. Work 1 SC at back seam (hook in front, yarn in back, so heel loop is inside edging). Continue along second side, ending in last row before corner at instep. Fasten off.
Finishing: Weave in all ends as invisibly as possible on wrong side.
Make another slipper to match!
COLOR: 205 Linen. A latte with a lot of milk.
COLOR: 215 Rosso. Ripe tomato red.
COLOR: 219 Gooseberry. Chartreuse green.
COLOR: 251 Ecru. Delicate cream.
COLOR: 252 Black. Deepest black.
COLOR: 277 Turkish Plum. Dark navy blue.
COLOR: 346 Atlantic. Tropical turquoise.
COLOR: 347 Slate. Medium grey.
COLOR: 239 Ice Water. Blue skies with a bit of haze.
COLOR: 334 Delphinium. Medium lavender purple.
COLOR: 335 Thunder. Muted marine blue.
COLOR: 348 Aubergine. Faded grape.
COLOR: 356 Raspberry. Deep rosy pink.
COLOR: 354 Sunshine. Lemon yellow.