The Free Pattern

See "The Details" tab for size, yarn, needle, and gauge information.

Glossary:
Dec’d = decrease(’d); Inc’d = increase(’d); K = knit; KFB = knit into front, then back of same stitch; MB = make bobble (see Special Technique below); P = purl; P3Tog = purl 3 sts together; RS = right side; Sl = slip specified number of stitches from left needle to right needle without working them (slip purlwise unless specified otherwise); SK2TogP = slip 1, K2Tog, PSSO (slip 1 knitwise, knit next 2 sts together, pass slipped stitch over st just worked, tug to tighten); St(s) = stitch(es); WS = wrong side; WYIB = with yarn in back; WYIF = with yarn in front; YO = yarn over.

There are countless ways to make a bobble. We found that wrapping the bobble with your working yarn gives it a little support and prevents it from sinking to the back of your work. These bobbles hold their shape beautifully and really pop!

Work the following five rows in a single stitch to create a 5-stitch bobble:

Row 1 (RS): (KFB) twice, then knit into front of same stitch one more time. Turn. [4 sts inc’d for 5-st bobble]
Row 2 (WS): WYIB Sl 1 knitwise, P4. Turn.
Row 3 (RS): WYIB Sl 1 purlwise, K4. Turn.
Row 4 (WS): WYIF Sl 1 purlwise, P3Tog, P1. Turn. [2 sts dec’d in bobble]
Row 5 (RS): SK2TogP. Do not turn. [2 sts dec’d in bobble; 1 bobble made]

Use your finger to push bobble to front of work and give it a little shape. Bring yarn to front of work between needles and slip bobble st back to left needle; bring working yarn under base of bobble and to back of work between needles; slip bobble st back to right needle without working and tug gently on working yarn to tighten around bobble.

Continue working in pattern as directed, giving first stitch after bobble a little tug to tighten.

Cast on:
With smaller needle, using cable cast-on method, cast on 64 sts. Do not join in the round yet.

Ribbed edging:
Row 1: *K1, P1*; repeat between * * to end of row. Do not turn.

Bobbles:
Change to gauge needle and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place stitch marker (or clip locking marker into first stitch) to designate beginning of round. On subsequent rounds, slip marker as you come to it (or move locking marker up every few rounds).

Knit 5 rounds.

Bobble round 1: *K7, MB*; repeat between * * to end of round.
Knit 5 rounds.
Bobble round 2: K3, MB, *K7, MB*; repeat between * * to last 4 sts, K4.
Knit 5 rounds.
Repeat Bobble round 1 once more.
Knit 5 rounds.

Ribbed edging:
Next round: Change to smaller needle; *K1, P1* to end.
Bind off in pattern, matching tension of cast-on edge, so work doesn’t pull in or flare out.
Break yarn; fasten off.

Finishing:
Weave in ends as invisibly as possible, using cast-on tail to close up any gaps.
Soak piece for 20 minutes in tepid water with a little no-rinse wool soap. Gently squeeze out as much water as possible. Roll in a towel and gently squeeze out more moisture.
Lay piece flat to desired dimensions on blocking board or other moisture-safe surface and fluff the bobbles a bit. Note: Superwash yarn has a tendency to grow when wet; gently shape cowl to desired dimensions — it will hold its shape when dry.
About halfway through drying, check on cowl. When the top layer is dry and while the bottom is still damp, gently flip cowl over and reshape any flattened or misshapen bobbles.
Allow to dry thoroughly.