The Free Pattern
See "The Details" tab for size, yarn, needle, and gauge information.
GLOSSARY: Inc = increase (knit into front then into back of same stitch); K = knit; K2Tog = knit 2 stitches together; K3Tog = knit 3 stitches together; St(s) = stitch(es); YO = yarn over (bring yarn forward between needles, then back over right needle).
Prepare yarn: No matter what yarn you use, it’s important to reserve a little more than half of it for the second part of the scarf (decrease section). If you’re using two skeins, weigh your yarn in grams; if there’s a discrepancy in weight, begin your scarf with the lighter ball. If you’re using one large skein, divide skein in half by weight before you begin, using a kitchen/postal scale.
Set-up rows: Cast on 3 sts.
Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 (WS): Inc 1, Inc 1, K1. (5 sts)
Row 3 (RS): K1, K2Tog, YO, K2.
Row 4 (WS): Knit.
Row 5 (RS): K2, YO, K1, YO, K2. (7 sts)
Row 6 (WS): Knit.
Note: Pin a marker to the right side (RS) of work to help you keep track of where you are in the pattern. With RS facing you, the right-hand edge of scarf (neck edge) will stay straight, while the left-hand edge will angle out with your increase rows then back in again with your decrease rows to form the depth point of your triangle.
Increase section: Row 1 (RS): K2, YO, K2Tog, K to last 2 sts, YO, K2. (1 st increased)
Row 2 (WS): Knit.
Row 3 (RS): K2, YO, K2Tog, K to last 4 sts, K2Tog, YO, K2. (0 sts increased)
Row 4 (WS): Knit.
Repeat Rows 1–4 until you have 60 (72) sts (or until desired center depth and you have a bit more than half of your yarn left to complete second half of triangle), ending with Row 2. Note: Notice that every RS row creates an eyelet hole at both edges, but only Row 1 results in a net increase. If you see YOs on your needle, it’s time for an even-numbered (plain knit) row. On oddnumbered (increase) rows, glance below to the prior RS row as you near the end of the row. If you see a K2Tog just to the right of the YO, you’re currently on a Row 1 (no K2Tog required); if you see a simple knit just to the right of the prior YO, you’re currently on Row 3 and it’s time for a K2Tog!
Decrease section: Row 1 (RS): K2, YO, K2Tog, K to last 5 sts, K2Tog, YO, K2Tog, K1. (1 st decreased)
Row 2 (WS): Knit.
Row 3 (RS): K2, YO, K2Tog, K to last 4 sts, K2Tog, YO, K2. (0 sts decreased)
Row 4 (WS): Knit.
Repeat Rows 1-4 until 8 sts remain, ending with Row 2. Note: If you see YOs on your needle, it’s time for an even-numbered (plain knit) row. On oddnumbered (decrease) rows, glance below to the prior RS row as you near the end of the row. If you see a K2Tog just to the left of the YO, you’re currently on a Row 3.
Row 1 (RS): (RS): K2, YO, K3Tog, YO, K2Tog, K1. (7 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Knit.
Row 3 (RS): K2, YO, K3Tog, K2. (6 sts)
Row 4 (WS): K2Tog three times. (3 sts)
Row 5 (RS): Knit.
Finishing: Bind off. Weave in ends.
Blocking:
Animal- or plant-fiber yarns:
To wet block: Soak in cool water with a little no-rinse wool wash; roll in towels and squeeze or run through spin cycle of machine in a lingerie bag to remove as much moisture as possible. Pin to desired dimensions and let dry completely.
To steam block: Pin to desired dimensions while still dry; gently steam with a press cloth. Let dry completely.
100% silk or silky-fiber yarns (bamboo, microfiber, etc.):
Pin to desired dimensions. Spritz lightly with water. Let dry completely.
